![]() ![]() Did the engine have less intake backfire with one particular spark plug wire disconnected? If it did, leave that one disconnected, and disconnect and reconnect the remaining seven, one at a time. Reconnect that spark plug wire and disconnect another, until you have done all eight. Isolate the mistimed cylinder(s): Disconnect, and ground one spark plug wire at a time, and start the engine. Your repair manual, which I expect you to be using, will explain how to set up timing, and things to be careful of, such as crossed wires, or crossfire of adjacent wires. This is a list of troubleshooting areas to investigate: You may have to register at the site to see the information.īackfire into the intake is a mistimed firing of one or more cylinders. Time to go have a look.thanks again for all your help, Nate.Instead of concentrating on what part to change, you need to think of troubleshooting. How's that for a clue !!! The other clue is that no oil leaks at idle, but copious amounts at road speed, climbing the belts towards the top of the engine. OH, I just realized something - here we go.I've alread re-used that washer twice, torqued it up & then pulled it, (which would have torn it's rubber coating), the torqued it again, and now the leak is worse than before - duh !! Maybe my shop owner buddy is 1/2 correct, as in, no oil pressure in crankshaft, he's wrong about that, but excessive oil in that area is making it's way past the internal joint of the crank & balancer, past that thin sealing washer - that is leaking somehow - probably the rubber coating got torn when I cranked down on it. ![]() If I do pull the timing cover, I'll make sure of the 'oil slinger' being in proper position.ĭo you think it could have fallen off, thus causing an excessive amount of oil to make it's way to the crank seal ?įrom what you say, it could be possible. The new balancer has the groove question taken care of - new crank seal, too. Wow - this blew me away - never even considered it as a possibility but his description of the leak does match my symptoms to a T.Īny of you Mopar / Ram Van vets heard of this type of oil leak issue ? :help:Ĭlick to expand.Nate, thanks for the tips. The only way to prevent the oil leaking past the threads is to liberally coat the crank bolt threads with a sealing gasket maker, use RTV to coat the the rubber sealing washer, and use RTV to seal the inside joint where balancer & crank end meet." If that washer fails to seal, you get an oil leak that may not appear at idle, but with increased engine RPM & oil pressure, it get's slung out under pressure, past the crank bolt threads, from under the balancer - oil will climb your belts up the engine, too. That's why you have that 'rubber covered, thin sealing washer' they give you with the new front main seal, that goes under the crank bolt & heavy washer. "Your crankshaft is full of oil pressure - your main crank bolt, besides holding the balancer on, also holds back the oil pressure inside the crankshaft. OK, so I complain to my mechanic buddy, and he shares this tip - (I'm hoping veterans like Nate, Grant, Stev, Dan and others can reflect on this point.) which blew me away, because if he's correct, no repair manual mentioned it as part of this repair. One fellow (elsewhere) said: it's your timing cover, ITSELF that's leaking, so you gotta pull that & reseal it. Three times dissassembing things with no improvement will do that to ya ! (Picture me, nearly bald, pulling out the last two hairs !!) After replacing first the front seal, then reworking it to install a new 'harmonic balancer' sleve, and then finally a new OEM harmonic balancer, and yet oil leaking worse than ever ! Short version: I thought oil dripping off the harmonic balancer & pulley was due to leaking front main seal. OK, I've not mentioned this before here 'cause I thought it was a simple fix - learned the hard way not so simple !
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